Heartland Laser Creations
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Rotisserie

10-30-2008

The next big project for me is I want to finish welding the floor from the bottom side.  I debated a few days if I wanted to just jack the car up and weld on the bottom of it (not really), if I wanted to build a rotisserie, or if I could get by with building some strong "L" shaped brackets to support the car on it's side?  After playing with some designs on the computer and figuring how much steel I would need to really build just brackets to support the car.. I decide to go with a rotisserie.  I really like the design I found online Matthew Harwood's Rotisserie design  I'm making a few minor changes to it, but it will be pretty close to what he shows in his design.

I had a little 2x3 steel left over from the jig, and today I picked up the 3x3   3/16" wall square tubing.  I was able to get all the 3x3 I needed and have it cut for about $225.00 in today's steel prices.  I will need just a little bit of 2 1/2" square tubing and a few odds and ends to complete the rotisserie.  The 8 darn wheels are going to cost a small fortune!  Oh well, it should be a great tool to add to my shop and I'm pretty sure this won't be the last car project for me or my family.

I'm really looking forward to seeing the car on it's side and to be able to easily weld and prep the underside of the car.

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11-09-2008

Check it out!  I still have a few holes to drill for additional bolts to properly secure it now I have found a good center of gravity.  This is pretty darn cool..  I can completely rotate the car, it clears by about an inch on at the rear quarters to the rotisserie leg supports.  It clears my 7' garage door by about 3 inches when the door is up.  I will probably add a tube between the two stands but honestly I think this is solid enough it probably isn't needed.  The casters I bought from Northern Tool roll nice (but don't lock) so I will need to chuck the wheels.  I sure don't want this thing to roll down my driveway!

This will really make the job of welding the floor and finishing the bottom side of the car a easy project now.  I rolled it over 3 or 4 times and man did a lot of sand and crap come out of the frame rails from when I tried to sandblast those areas!

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4-15-2010

The past year to year and one half have been crazy for me.  A big project at my day job ate up nearly half of my weekends!  Then two more grand-babies and all the rest of life getting in the way.  But every once in a while I would sneak out to the garage and work on a few more welds and do a little more grinding and filling.  I decided to cut out the area of the floor board that had ribs for the '65 rear parking brake cable and I smooth that area out.  This isn't ever going to be a Concours car, so I did a little extra seam sealing than the factory did.

After messing around way too long on the bottom of this car, I finally called it good and shot the second of two good coats of Master Series Silver.  This sprays great, but is some nasty stuff.  Plenty of ventilation is a must and a good mask.  A fresh air system would have been really nice.

 

This bottom hasn't looked like this since January of 1967.

 

And then a day later a good coat of Master Series AG 111 Satin Black.  This is a newer satin black 2 part paint that is chemical resistant.  This is hard to get a good picture of the black.  It isn't as glossy as this picture looks.  It isn't flat or glossy, but a little more glossy than I was expecting for satin? 

 

This car was originally a Dearborn Mustang and it had what was called a slop grey paint (all the left-over paint mixed together).  From what I could see left on our old sheet metal our car was almost black with a little sheen to it when cleaned up.  So this should be plenty close enough for a driver.  With using some really good paint on the bottom of this car, I plan to only put some under-coating in the wheel-well area.  The rest I think I will leave to allow it to be washed easier.  For sound deadening I plan to use one of the new products on the floor and firewall area.  Considering that we plan to drive this car in nice weather, it should hopefully be another 40-50 years before someone has to cut and repair much metal on this car!

Next week I think I will actually put the car back down on the rolling jig.  Then I can fix a couple small areas on the A pillar that needs some work and get the doors remounted and start on some finish body work!!